We love showing off our island. Having Jodi and Gary here, we've seen some new places, but when we see our favorite places through new eyes, we get the biggest kick! So many times during their time here, I've had to remind myself that while we share the kinship of being Cruisers, they have not experienced much of what Puerto Rico has to offer. With every new exclamation of surprise, or gasp in awe, my heart swells for our beautiful Isla del Encanto.
A rare, genuine smile for the camera. Must be boatlife!
Watching the procession of fishermen going to work has become routine as well.
It's so easy to slip right back into cruising life. We spent so many years sleeping while rocking gently at anchor, and waking up to the sunrise and watching local fishermen go about their business. It's a life lived close to nature, and with very few luxuries. We have been reminded of the things we lived without, and it renews our appreciation of the amenities we now almost take for granted as CLODS.
This morning, Gary had to spend some time earning a living, so Jodi, Bruce and I took off to entertain ourselves for a few hours. We returned to the black sand beach we found this week, only not so far north this time, and spent some time doing what we girls love best... beach combing!
Pretty soon, Gary called to tell us he was done working and we hurried back to the Marina to collect him, and continue on with our day! Jodi had posted a photo of Faro Los Morrillos as they passed by on the water. Today we would show them what these dramatic cliffs, and the beautiful Cabo Rojo Lighthouse look like by land!
Driving out on the narrow strip of marshy land between the salt flats and the Caribbean sea, I was once again amazed at how different this place can be, even though I've been here a dozen times or more. There had been some rain, making the drive a little muddy. Thanks again to our AWD Honda! We stopped briefly at the salt museum, which was closed, as was the observation tower. I waited while our friends got out and went over to take a look at the salt mountain, then we moved on over to the salt plans.
Today, the sections were empty, with the exception of one that was in the process of being refilled with salt water pumped from the sea. We walked out to get a closer look. Gary went over to speak to a worker who was working in some sort of machine. Must have been all in Spanish, because when Gary returned to report, the only thing he caught was "45 days". We figured that was the number of days it takes to evaporate the pans so that the salt can be harvested.
Jodi and Gary checking it out!
The pump pouring new salt water into the evaporation pan.
This pan was about half again as full last time we were here, as were all of the others as well.
I absolutely can not resist these jiggling, poofing bubbles! I can't watch that without giggling! The empty pans still had some salt on the bottom in the lower areas, but I am completely amazed that they can get all of the salt off of the structures and most from the ground. Simply amazing! Hopefully some day, we will come when all of that is going on!!
Gary talking to the worker.
Some salt remains. Wonder if we could skate on it!
Walking back to the car, I noticed that the muddy dirt beneath our feet was sparkling like diamonds with the salt saturation. Simply amazing!
We made the short drive up to the parking area for Faro Los Morillos, then began the hike up in the mid-day sun. It is already warmer than it was during our last visit, but the stiff breeze kept us cool enough. I'm pretty sure this is the windiest we've ever experienced here.
Gary and Jodi
I feel the tug on my heart when I see boats at sea. You can barely see the two in this photo!
Funny how new eyes bring a new perspective. In all of the times we've been here, we have never continued on past the lighthouse to peer over the cliff at Playa Sucia! It's another view from the dramatic cliffs, and the wind drove the sea into the rocks far below with a violent surge! It was completely wild up there, and it made my heart beat a little faster.
I follow Jodi's lead through the waving grasses.
The wind tried to blast us off this sheer cliff path! Hold onto your hat!
These rocks have recently fallen
On our way to the more familiar part of the cliff, I noticed that from this perspective, there were several huge pieces of cliff that had once been overhang. I am pretty sure that I even have a photo of our friend Kathy sitting on the one remaining ledge with her feet dangling. You could see the cracks in the ground as you near the cliff... and in one place, it was actually partially leaning. Stay back from the edge! Recent earthquakes are wreaking havoc on our shoreline!
We continued on, blown by the wind, and enjoying the fabulously clear, sunny Carribbean day! Next photo op, the stunning Puente de Piedra, one of our remaining natural rock bridges. Now it has been blocked off so that people don't try to walk out on it. That is a thing of the past. Now we must enjoy it from the safety of solid ground.
We continued walking on down the coast path, until we reached the small chain of sandy beaches north of the natural bridge cove. I had hoped we would be able to go down onto the sand and hunt for caves today, but the seas were huge, crashing up onto the sand, making it impossible to attempt further exploration.
Jodi and Gary went a bit further on the path. It actually goes quite a bit more. Next time.
On the walk back to the car, I took some more flower photos. During our visit here three weeks ago with our neighbor, I told her about how sometimes, this coastal plane has some kind of blooming bush that has flowers so small you can hardly see them, but the scent of them fills the air. Today, those flowers were beginning to bloom.
As we walked along, we would pass through a downwind spot, full of the thick, honey scent. Going back, I followed my nose until I found the culprit. It's actually a rather large bush, or small brushy tree. It's covered with few leaves, but so many of these tiny flowers. The bees were busy making themselves useful!
Further inquiries have brought me to believe this MIGHT be the "Birdcatcher Tree", or the Pisonia horneae, but it is almost certainly one of the Pisonia trees, and I think the locals call it Corcho!
You can see how small they are, as compared to the bee!
Once more we loaded up and began the drive back, but the fun wasn't over! We stopped for some pictures of the old railroad bridge! I don't know why I've never stopped, maybe just needed the right partners in adventure, or maybe someone to take the photos!!
Feeling reckless after the bridge climb... I decided that I needed better photos of the salt piles, so we stopped again.
They look fluffy, but the salt is very firmly packed. I would imagine that moisture and rain sort of weld the salt together, but at the bottom, you can still scoop up hand-fulls of salt crystals like so much warm and salty snow!
What a fun day! Looking at the time, it was getting later in the afternoon, lunchtime really, but today we had not brought lunches! I consulted Google and decided that we could make the nearly hour drive to get some of the BEST Empanadillas on the island! And I would show them one more favorite beach where we could have our little picnic.
Somewhere on the way we passed THIS!
This little "locals" spot is called El Barbarazo, and we waited patiently while the lady made us all FRESH Emanadillas! We had beef, chicken, and my favorite, CRAB! So full of delicious crab meat! The short drive to the beach was torture as the smells tantalized our noses.
We enjoyed our picnic, took a quick spin on the beach, but no sea glass today. And that, ladies and gents, concludes our island tour!
Our home away from home awaits!
Back at the boat, we took our showers. I think it's time for me to go home, because judging from my serious lack of organization skills (didn't get to shore with all the shower stuff), my poor brain is on overload! Maybe it's side effects from the covid vaccine, maybe it's just the fact that we've been trying to pack in as much as we possibly could before we go home, but whatever it is, I'm tired and can't seem to form a lucid thought!
Luckily, I didn't have to! Once again, we settled into a quiet evening in the cockpit watching the intermittent rainfall that began at just the right time. Jodi didn't need to make us any dinner after those late-day Empanadillas, but she put out a bunch of snack foods that we all grazed upon. We were all ready for an early night.
The next morning, we woke up to greet the sunrise from away. I took Jodi for one more grocery run, and then we said our goodbyes as the anchorage began to fill up. By the time we arrived at home, Jodi said there were six more boats in the anchorage! Well, I guess they'll have plenty of people to fill their days while they wait for a weather window to leave Puerto Rico.
Thanks SO MUCH to you both, for allowing us to stay with you on the beautiful Country Dancer, and to experience again, the cruising lifestyle. We can't wait for you to come back and continue exploring our Island home!
Happy Faces on our first dinghy ride in a long while!
When our friends on Country Dancer left our Bay, we said our goodbyes, and pretty much figured it was over. When a weather window opens, shore plans fall to the wayside. But sometimes, that weather window slams back shut without notice. I swear I did no Voodoo that would adversely affect their weather window... but it didn't hurt my feelings any when we got the message saying that Jodi and Gary would be "stuck" in the anchorage at Puerto Real for at least a week!
After a one day delay (so that I could make sure I suffered no ill effects from my initial Covid vaccine), Bruce and I loaded up our car and made the drive to the far west side of the island once again. It's been less than three weeks since we had our little staycation here, but we were happy to close up the house and do it all again!
We arrived before noon on Tuesday, and dove right back in to the Cruising lifestyle. We changed into swimsuits and set off to explore the beaches within dinghy reach! With our bow pointed out and around the point, then onward toward La Playita Beach, we were lured by a glimpse of white sand on one of the nearby cays. Always up for an adventure, we diverted course and bounded across the crystal blue waters until depth became an issue.
See that little sliver of white? That's where we're headed!
Jodi and Gary are pros at this!
As we reached the shallows near the shore, we pulled up the prop and motored more slowly, careful to pick a path across the sandy bottom so as not to damage any of the fragile seagrass bed. We reached the shore and got out of the dinghy to pull it the last few feet to the sand.
It didn't look like much at first. The sea bottom was very soft and impossible to walk. We looked around and noticed that there were trails leading back into the brush, and all along the shore. Off we went!
Mangrove roots
Fallen palm "flowers" on the trail
This sliver was a bit larger than the rest, so we tested the waters...
The trails are very well worn, giving us comfort. We walked the sun-dappled, shaded pathways through the palm, manchineel, sea grape, and mangrove trees. There are a lot of broken trees, with more than a few huge termite nests, with trails showing the important demolition work these little creatures are doing here.
There are many side-trails leading to the interior as well as to these small sand beaches that punctuate the mangrove-lined coast. We kept going toward the rocky reef until we found a slightly larger beach, with a much better seabed for trekking out onto the tide-exposed reef.
Jodi leads the way! I love this girl!!!
Jodi took this one of Bruce and I deciding which way to go!
The men are a bit more cautious.
Tide-swept seaweed streaks across the rocky sea bottom.
Crystal clear waters
Jodi and I explored the reef, exposed by low tide. The water was only knee-deep, and there was no current. Walking was a bit precarious, however, and we saw a few urchins that we studiously avoided.
Bruce finally arrived just in time for the obligatory selfie!
Thanks, Jodi, for the photo!
We waded back to shore, and decided to continue on to see where this trail leads. It was pleasant beneath the shade of so many trees, and good to be adventuring in places less accessible by land. Although the trails leading to Punta Ostiones can be reached by car, I'm sure we never would have found it!
Jodi snaps a pic of Bruce and I ahead of her on the trail.
Tiny palm flower
Eventually, patience wore thin, and the men suggested we go back the other way. They would take the dinghy back around and pick us up at the other end of the trail, so that us girls could continue our exploration ashore.
So. Many. Lizards.
I couldn't get under without crawling... Jodi caught my climb over!
Being shorter has it's advantages...
Very quickly, this trail seemed to become a bit more rugged, and less traveled. We rounded a point and saw that what we thought would be our beach, was yet another indentation in the coastline. Just as we decided to bail out of this excursion, we spotted the men motoring around the point. We waived them over and begged for a ride!
We scrambled into the dinghy and enjoyed the slow look at the mangrove-lined coastline. I'm sure the mangroves had been severely damaged by the hurricanes in 2017, but it looks like they are recovering nicely! During our dinghy ride out, we opted to go outside of these small cays, hoping for deeper water. Now, the winds were picking up and it made our decision to try the narrow waterways between the cays and the mainland seem the preferred route. We sure are glad we decided to brave it, because it was so much fun navigating to find the deeper water, while getting a prime view of the natural area all around us.
Just around the next point, we found our beach, La Playita! There were already a few families enjoying this calm little strip of beach, even though it was a Tuesday. The palms waived invitingly as we motored closer, then jumped out to drag the dinghy ashore once again. We took our snacks and found a covered seating area to have our little lunch.
We had to search for the channel, and creep to the exit.
After eating, we tried out the trails at the end of this beach, but they ended rather abruptly, so we returned to the boat and set off through the remaining route between the cays to our anchorage.
We had a moment of concern where it looked like we would have to backtrack, but we found a deeper channel that led to the open water and back to our boat!
Back onboard, we waited out a passing rainshower, then packed up our shower gear and headed ashore for another taste of the Cruising lifestyle... shore showers!
This brought back so many memories for us, and it emphasized how luxurious our lives are since we became CLODS. While both have their perks, this little step back in time is precious to us!
Mango is much younger than our cats were, and WAY more daring!
A rainbow marked the way!
Hurrying back just in time for sundown!
Relaxing in the cockpit after a day of exploring, we slipped right back into this lifestyle as if we had never left. While it wasn't our own boat, it was just as enjoyable, as we looked forward to the coming night, when we would rest our weary heads in a gently rocking berth. What a great day it has been, and we're excited for the days to come before we go back to our regular island life...
One more treat was in store for us this night... visits from the feline crew! Goodnight! See you in the morning for another day of island adventures!
