Nine months. I can't believe we've been here in Grenada for almost NINE MONTHS! And in that time, we have made ourselves very much at home. We arrived when most Cruisers were just beginning to migrate away for the season, way back at the first of November. We remained here through the slow season, and are still here as the Cruiser migration begins to arrive back in Grenada for another Hurricane season. And with the migration comes new friends as well as old ones!
I've watched with excitement as friends from Texas got closer and closer. Ken and Carrie from Griffin were our dock mates back in Port Aransas. As we welcomed them and others to the island, I've been planning all the things I wanted to show them, as well as some new spots for Bruce and I!
Added Bonus: A stop to see the Mona Monkeys!
There are many choices of drivers to take us around the island, but I enjoy the company of our friend Chico! I arranged for him to pick us, and ten of our closest NEW friends, up mid morning and whisk us all off for a fun day of adventuring on this beautiful island! Our destination: Claboney Sulphur Springs! I felt giddy with excitement and just couldn't wait for everyone to see the little treasures we've found here - and there is just SO MUCH to love!
Several other popular attractions punctuate the route to the springs. Chico made sure we enjoyed them all! He knows the secret spot to find the Mona Monkeys and we all got to try our luck with a banana today!
A shy guy watches from the trees.
Ron (Follow Me) taking his chances with this big boy!
Carrie laughs as the monkey takes the banana!
And away he goes!
The obligatory Monkey-Selfie
Mindy (Follow Me) having some Me-Time with a Mona Monkey
He walked right over my head!
Gimme that banana!
We had a blast holding and feeding the Mona Monkeys! Eventually we had our fill, and continued on the short distance to take a look at the beautiful mountain spring-fed Grand Etang Lake. Chico told us that the lake is connected to the Kick 'em Jenny volcano and that when it rumbles, this lake will bubble! No bubbles today!
But the fish kind of bubbled when bread crumbs were involved!
Next stop: Claboney Springs! We bounced along roads that got more and more remote. It's a good thing we're not in charge because it became quite a challenge to get the loaded van up the slippery cement roads. Several times we had to back up and get a running start... and STILL had to move the weight to the back of the bus to make it up the slope! It was just a little bit scary!
Funny thing... evidently this was Chico's first time coming up here and he wasn't exactly sure where we were supposed to go. He tried taking us all the way to the springs, but we ended up doing all that danger stuff for nothing. We had actually gone too far and had to backtrack to the little shack where a guy was probably wondering where on earth we were going!
The real way to the springs... notice the sign!
We all loaded up our picnic gear and set off into the unknown. The path was well worn, but a little slippery with mud that always seems present in the Rainforest.
We crossed a couple of little streams and climbed some embankments, but the going wasn't too tough and the forest was beautiful!
Gotta watch your step, no time to gaze up at the soaring treetops!
Almost there... really!
And we finally made it! There's a clearing where we all found spots for our stuff and began shucking the clothing. We were all a little warm from the physical exertion it took to get here, but the air was cool up in the mountains so most of us were game for the warm waters of these mineral rich springs.
The mineral deposits made a natural non-skid coating on the rocks in the stream bed.
Our band of noisy Cruisers interrupted the solitude of these two young ladies. I felt a little bad about it, but not enough to forego the pleasures of a warm dip! We were counting on these waters taking ten years off our age!
Joey was the first one in!
I picked my way down into the warm waters.
I moved cautiously along the bottom, feeling my way with my feet. The bottom was silty and the water quickly filled with murk, much of which was flakes of the yellow/orange mineral deposits that lined everything the water touched.
The water was bathtub-warm... very nice in the cool air. We all just milled about, enjoying the lush garden that we are so fortunate to have at our disposal. I am continually amazed that there are so many of these hidden treasures out here for us to explore... for FREE!
Little murky!
Mindy exploring the spring.
See the little cave? That's where the spring is hiding!
I took Mindy's spot and moved toward the spring. I wanted to see what was in there. My curiosity was thwarted by the appearance of this millipede! I don't care if it will hurt me or not! I didn't want to find out!
Mindy flung it away and I was able to resume my exploration. Thanks Mindy!
I moved closer to the small rivulet of water escaping from the tiny cave. Bubbles tickled my body as they rose from the floor of the pool... the water made my skin feel almost like it was covered with some sort of water repellant as the bubbles clung and tickled me.
I got close enough to peer inside the cave and suddenly felt like I couldn't breathe! There were gasses escaping from the cave that almost choked me! I backed away quickly to find breathable air again! You're welcome! Now nobody else has to do that!!!! If I develop some sort of mysterious lung-funk, tell the doctor this is what happened!
Eventually we relinquished the pond back to the two young ladies who had tolerated our presence with grace. We were warm and the cool air felt so good on our skin as we crept back out of the pool and began thinking of lunch!
A rickety bridge made of felled bamboo leads the way across the orange-bottomed stream
A hidden oasis? YES!
But I wasn't done yet. When we came in, I wondered if this was the right pool, or if there was another one further down the stream. A makeshift bridge spanned the tiny yellow/orange stream bed that disappeared into the jungle. I could see a clearing off in the near distance but couldn't see water. One of the men volunteered to scout it out for us, and gave us the thumbs up!
We filed across the bridge and forged the muddy stream all the way to the next beautiful little pool paradise!
Ginger growing wild
The second pool was smaller and not quite as deep, but just as beautiful, maybe moreso!
You can see our camp back across the ravine.
LUCKY ME!!!
I spotted the spring and MORE BUBBLES!
Just milling around in paradise
We're lounging beneath the shade of a giant tree fern!
One last look at our oasis and we went back to camp for some lunch
Our bridge doesn't look like much...
But it served its purpose!
Continuing on with our bamboo theme, some of the guys were busy at camp creating a table for our pot luck banquet! The legs were a little rickety so they moved it to the ground and I used my grass matt as a table cloth. We spread our dishes out and feasted like royalty here in this hidden little nook in the jungle!
While we feasted, so did the mosquitos unfortunately! They never tell you about the bugs in those magazine articles! Well, I'm telling you! We were a buffet for the skinniest bunch of mosquitos I've ever seen. I almost felt like just letting them have an arm because they were obviously starving!
We ate. We drank. We were merry! And then it was time to pack our stuff back out and continue on to our next destination!
La Sagesse Beach is another of those spots that not everyone knows about. Chico brought us here on another excursion, but we didn't swim, and I have wanted to get back here ever since.
We gathered our beach gear and followed the manicured pathway down to the lovely secluded beach!
We made our nest and headed for the water. Remember we're no longer in the cool rainforest anymore and the days are becoming hotter here. We were all feeling it and the water was perfect!
It was easy to get past the breaking surf where we could just float in the shallow swells
Not much time left as the sun begins to sink
C'mon Ken and Carrie! The water is fine!
The waves carried us back to the sand
Now refreshed and revitalized once more, we did our own thing on the beach for a while. For some that meant a romantic stroll up the deserted beach... for others, that meant a game of Bocce!
I've never played before but I'm game. Evidently it takes a lot of deliberation from the looks of it... Maybe next time, there will be more time and I'll get to try my hand at it!
Ken and Carrie joined Bruce and I on the beach in the spectator's box, just watching and chatting, until a man and his wife came walking up the beach and recognized Ken. They stopped and talked for a bit and the takeaway was that they were locals and had a home nearby. They let Ken in on a little secret! The stream that split the beach just down the way was actually fresh water and could be used as a rinse before leaving the beach.
We meandered over past the Bocce bunch and followed the stream up into the mangroves. A freshwater rinse would be nice before we boarded the bus for home!
Somebody tasted the water and pronounced that it was indeed FRESH!
Carrie forging ahead!
The stream seemed to disappear into the mangrove jungle
But then it opened up into an inland pool.
We followed the stream back up the bank until we found a deeper pool surrounded by jungle. There were several birds disturbed by our unexpected and unwelcome presence, but we were on a mission. The water looked a little brownish, stained by tannins from the vegetation, but it didn't smell - much - so we took a dip.
Looking back toward the beach
Bruce was ALL IN!
C-Dock represents on La Sagesse Beach!
I can't adequately express to you the joy it brings me to share these wonders with friends. It's almost like I created this world for them and just want to spread the good fortune to all! Living here in Grenada has given me a strange but comfortable proprietary feeling that I just love.
Getting this outing together gave me a little bit of anxiety... would they like what I have planned? Would everyone have fun? Would they feel that it was a good value? As our day came to a close, it became obvious that everyone DID have a good time, and so my anxiety relaxed and pride took its place.
It's over. Time to load up and go home.
Not pride at what I had done to arrange for the day, but pride that my new home - AND CHICO - had shown themselves well for my new friends.
What a great day with good people! I can't wait to get out again and see more of this beautiful island and her gentle people. Welcome to my island!
Today is our 14th Anniversary and we hardly noticed. I could say that we planned this whole special evening for our celebration, but that would be a lie. I guess it's fitting that, similar to our actual wedding, this celebration was just whatever we happened to be doing today! Some would say that our whole life is a celebration, and it just doesn't get any better than this!
Our day started with the usual. Cruise the internet, listen to the morning Cruiser's Net, have some breakfast and then do whatever job has made it to the top of the "boat project quicksand". This morning it was cleaning the dinghy. That took the better part of the morning and then it was time to have lunch and rest up for the evening's festivities.
As cruisers, we have a standing rule never to try to do more than one thing in a day... and tonight would require that we conserve our energy!
At about 5:something, Shademan arrived to pick up our group of nine to whisk us away... up into the hills for an adventure. We really had only a vague idea of what was in store for us... but that's kind of how our life is now, and we're good with it!
During our ride, Jane and Paul (Peace)were sitting behind us and I heard them talking about how much they had missed Grenada. They've been away and arrived only a few days ago to take a mooring near us. I smiled at their conversation because I know just how they were feeling. There is nothing like flying through the streets, breathing in the rotation of scents from so many flowers, rum distillery fermentation tanks (ick), and chicken cooking on open fires. It just brings a smile to our faces and the feeling of homecoming to our hearts. We love this island!
But where are we going? All we knew was that we're going to listen to a Steel Pan Orchestra, the Commancheros, rehearse for the upcoming Carnival festivities. And there was also the possibility of popping in to see how progress was going in one of the many Carnival Costume shops! On our way, Shademan called ahead to arrange for our dinner. First they offered us Lambi Water but it was the general consensus that we would pass on that. Eventually the call came back with an offer of chicken-N-chips and we had a plan!
Shademan stopped abruptly and parked the van outside a home with a small attached bar. We were welcomed by a diminutive woman named Mary, and her family just getting to work on making us some dinner.
But that would have to wait. We could hear the sounds of the Steel Drum Orchestra just up the hill, leading us like a siren song.
We walked across a schoolyard where some kids were throwing a basketball at a hoop, borne by the growing sound. We mounted the steps into the room where invisible arms wrapped us in a vibrating, pulsing, heart jolting rhythm. A whole roomful of kids of all ages were nonchalantly playing steel drums of many sizes.
Their faces were blank as if they were NOT actually the creators of this magic. Some seemed sheepish as we brought out our cameras, but I couldn't help myself... I had to take a little piece of this home with me.
We crowded in the small space near the door and let the music wash over us as the band director ran the kids through two pieces over and over. The sheer power produced by these simple instruments was phenomenal. I've tried playing one of these drums and I can't get anything out of it that resembles this!
The band director was unlike any I've seen. he was totally jivin' and Bruce caught me admiring the way his butt moved independently of the rest of his body. This man has rhythm! I stood fascinated and just taking it all in as they went through their songs, not a piece of sheet music in sight. Now and then the director would hear something that he didn't like and the band would stop. He would go over to one of the students and show them what they were expected to play. How he could possibly have picked out one wrong note in all of that was just amazing.
The guy in grey and white is the director.
They have two weeks left to rehearse, but they sound great to me! Music practice began to wind down so we all wandered back to the little bar. Shademan's van was gone, so we went inside and ordered drinks. The offerings for non-beer choices were few, but I settled on some Ting with a shot of rum. Somehow the question was asked and answered, and I found myself in possession of a healthy swig of Babash! (Whoops!) I mixed my rum with Ting in a glass of ice and the party got started while we waited for the cook to call us to dinner!
Out the front door where the breeze is cool.
Poor doggie just wanted to come in and join the fun!
I let Mindy go first...
Shademan returned to check on us and we realized that we hadn't seen the costume place yet. He asked us why we didn't go! Well because we have no idea where it is!!! He pointed us back up the road past the schoolyard and we set off to follow his vague instructions. We weren't sure we were supposed to follow this narrow path, but it ended well and we found the workroom where the ladies were just getting started.
The theme this year is "Splash". This Mermaid costume was gorgeous!
We looked through the photos of many costume orders from Trinidad
This is the scrap box! It's full of feathers and bits and bobs!
Various notions to adorn the costumes
Headpieces and other strange contraptions hung here and there.
We walked into a workroom that was littered with pieces and scraps and frills and feathers. There were a couple of ladies cutting some material and a couple of others having a discussion about a costume. We thanked them and remarked about the lateness of the hour! They told us that it was early as they were just coming to work. They have day jobs and then come here to work late into the night to get the costumes made.
Anyone on the island, including US, could commission a costume. Parts and designs are ordered from Trinidad, but the bulk of the work is done in rooms like this one all over the island. Everything is made by hand and we only saw one old sewing machine buried in the fluff. There is some secrecy and of course, the delicate costumes must be protected from damage, so most were covered from view. We did peek beneath the sheets and found piles of colorful feathers!
A work in progress!
Finished costumes waiting to be picked up.
I want a pink head feather!
Frames are built in the dark recesses.
Another room held some finished parts, and we found a man working in a third room who told us a little more about the process. The women sew and create, while the men are responsible for making the metal frames that support the wild costumes.
We said our goodbyes and left, maybe just a little disappointed that we hadn't seen pretty girls decked in feathers, but with a new interest in Carnival. If we want to see these costumes in full glory, we'll just have to participate in the events!
Leaving the costumers to their work, we went back out into the night. We high-stepped through dewy grass and flopped back down the steep hill, and I looked up at the misty moon. An eerie light shone on the tropical plants on the roadside, coqui frogs serenaded our progress in the warm, balmy air. As happens sometimes, I was struck with the randomness of this moment. We are in the heart of the island and feel safe and welcome by these lovely people. Cruising life is good.
Coqui song was gradually replaced by the thumping rhythm of larger-than-necessary speakers back in our little bar. We passed from the fresh air outside into the frenzied warmth inside and found diminutive Mary welcoming us once again with a wiggle. She literally took us into her arms and wouldn't let go until our movements matched hers! She was MAKING us dance!
We took temporary refuge in the dinner line! Lloyd was done with the chicken and fries... We picked up our boxes and found our spot at the little bar that lined the room with a window open to the night air.
A simple anniversary dinner - and that's just fine with us!
This might not qualify as an appropriately posh celebratory dinner by most standards, but the randomness, the adventure, the not-knowing-what-comes-next factor of it made it perfect. The fact that I can be happy with two scrawny chicken wings, a pile of fries, and some questionable (possibly dangerous) concoction to drink, attests to the many ways in which leaving a former life behind and embracing the adventure can change a person. My standards have definitely changed... but it is a good thing!
That's Mary in the strips.
While Bruce and I were eating, the party was ramping up all around us. The music got louder and it was impossible to resist Mary as she drew everyone in the room into the fray! It's been a long time since I've danced. I don't know why. But I could feel my stiff bones beginning to melt a little as the rum infused my insides, and the warmth of the night melted me outside.
The blur says it all!
This entire party did not exist prior to my question to Shademan about what we were having for dinner. He called these people to ask if they would cook for us....and that's how it all began. Little did any of us know that it would turn into an all-out-PARTY! The faces of the Locals bore indulgent smiles as they danced right along with us and took video of the silly white people trying to dance! But you know what? The fact that we don't have "moves" did not matter at all. We all melted together and gyrated and sweated and sang to the music with these sweet people! Yes... EVEN BRUCE! It was a hoot and the pics and videos just don't do it justice.
We danced and danced, and people kept showing up and joining in. A skinny little boy arrived and took the floor with flailing arms that we could not mimic with our old bones! He was the cutest little thing! The guy who did the cooking, Lloyd, came around to all of us to thank us for coming and to invite us to a Jump-Up they were having on Sunday. I felt that was the most sincere welcome we could wish for... they wanted us to come back!
Paul looks like I FEEL!
The party could have gone on all night, but we were pouring sweat and our tired bodies were beginning to feel the unaccustomed strain! We were up WAY beyond Cruiser's Midnight! Bruce and I paid our tab and went out into the cooling breeze to dry off while the others got the silent memo and paid their tabs... Lloyd once again invited us to come back, but we're Cruisers and it's difficult for us to commit four days out!
What a wonderful surprise this has been. There's no way we could have anticipated the way this night would play out, but the joy and camaraderie was the perfect way to spend our special evening. I wonder how we'll spend our NEXT anniversary... Well whatever we end up doing... Let there be DANCING!
Several other popular attractions punctuate the route to the springs. Chico made sure we enjoyed them all! He knows the secret spot to find the Mona Monkeys and we all got to try our luck with a banana today!
Next stop: Claboney Springs! We bounced along roads that got more and more remote. It's a good thing we're not in charge because it became quite a challenge to get the loaded van up the slippery cement roads. Several times we had to back up and get a running start... and STILL had to move the weight to the back of the bus to make it up the slope! It was just a little bit scary!
Funny thing... evidently this was Chico's first time coming up here and he wasn't exactly sure where we were supposed to go. He tried taking us all the way to the springs, but we ended up doing all that danger stuff for nothing. We had actually gone too far and had to backtrack to the little shack where a guy was probably wondering where on earth we were going!
We all loaded up our picnic gear and set off into the unknown. The path was well worn, but a little slippery with mud that always seems present in the Rainforest.
And we finally made it! There's a clearing where we all found spots for our stuff and began shucking the clothing. We were all a little warm from the physical exertion it took to get here, but the air was cool up in the mountains so most of us were game for the warm waters of these mineral rich springs. 
The water was bathtub-warm... very nice in the cool air. We all just milled about, enjoying the lush garden that we are so fortunate to have at our disposal. I am continually amazed that there are so many of these hidden treasures out here for us to explore... for FREE!
I took Mindy's spot and moved toward the spring. I wanted to see what was in there. My curiosity was thwarted by the appearance of this millipede! I don't care if it will hurt me or not! I didn't want to find out!
We filed across the bridge and forged the muddy stream all the way to the next beautiful little pool paradise!
Continuing on with our bamboo theme, some of the guys were busy at camp creating a table for our pot luck banquet! The legs were a little rickety so they moved it to the ground and I used my grass matt as a table cloth. We spread our dishes out and feasted like royalty here in this hidden little nook in the jungle!
La Sagesse Beach is another of those spots that not everyone knows about. Chico brought us here on another excursion, but we didn't swim, and I have wanted to get back here ever since. 
We made our nest and headed for the water. Remember we're no longer in the cool rainforest anymore and the days are becoming hotter here. We were all feeling it and the water was perfect!
Now refreshed and revitalized once more, we did our own thing on the beach for a while. For some that meant a romantic stroll up the deserted beach... for others, that meant a game of Bocce!
Ken and Carrie joined Bruce and I on the beach in the spectator's box, just watching and chatting, until a man and his wife came walking up the beach and recognized Ken. They stopped and talked for a bit and the takeaway was that they were locals and had a home nearby. They let Ken in on a little secret! The stream that split the beach just down the way was actually fresh water and could be used as a rinse before leaving the beach. 
We followed the stream back up the bank until we found a deeper pool surrounded by jungle. There were several birds disturbed by our unexpected and unwelcome presence, but we were on a mission. The water looked a little brownish, stained by tannins from the vegetation, but it didn't smell - much - so we took a dip.
